Sunday, July 19, 2015

Betwa river side: A lesser known marvel near Jhansi






Betwa river is one of the prominent river in Madhya Pradesh apart from Narmada i.e. Maa Rewa, Chambal and Son. Betwa flows gently on the Malwa plateau before merging into Yamuna in Hamirpur, Uttar Pradesh. 

Orchha is a beautiful ancient site along the banks of Betwa River in Madhya Pradesh. The history of this place is traced back to the Ramayan era when Lord Ram stayed here during his exile. Then, Betwa was known as Vetravati. A beautiful temple dedicated to Lord Ram popularly called as Raja Ram mandir is located some few meters away from Betwa banks.


places to visit in orchha
Betwa river Orchha chhatri

How to reach Orchha?

Orchha is in Madhya Pradesh. The closest railway junction to Orchha is Jhansi in Uttar Pradesh. Jhansi is some 20 Kilometers from Orchha. Jhansi railway station is well connected to all the metros and other big cities of India. Once you are in Jhansi, hire an Auto Rickshaw for Orchha. They charge around 80-100 rupees one way and 4 people can easily get in.

Where to stay?

If you are NOT on a tight budget then Orchha is the best place to stay. I haven’t stayed there but from a second source Orchha Resort and Betwa Retreat are the two best hotels in Orchha. They are a couple of minutes walk from the Betwa river bank.
If you are looking for budget hotels, I would suggest staying in Jhansi city itself. You can get a range of options in Jhansi city. When I was Jhansi I stayed in Hotel Chanda opposite to Jhansi public garden.

Must visit places in Jhansi and Orchha?

Ok. Here are the list of must visit places in and around Jhansi and Orchha.
Jhansi Fort – It’s big; keep 2-3 hours to see the fort comfortably. This is the fort from where Rani Laxmibai on his horse jumped from the fort wall with her son tied on her back.
Jhansi museum – Interesting stuffs related to Bundelkhand history and art. Worth visiting.
Raja Ram Mandir, Orchha – Both old and new one. Don’t the miss the old temple.
Orchha palace – Also known as Jahangir palace.
Betwa riverside, Orchha – Do you love sitting idle and your gaze fixed at infinity, then this is the place you are looking upon.

Let’s begin

This place was not in the original list. I feel happy that I found didn’t missed this place. A number of Cenotaphs or Chattris as it is called stands by the river bank. These were constructed by medieval kingdoms and they are really a treat to our eyes.



orchha history, cenotaphs-orchha
Cenotaphs or Chhatris in Orchha

orcha cenotaphs, orchha jhansi
Chhatri in Orchha, Madhya Pradesh

places to visit in madhya pradesh
Chhatris on the Betwa banks

The evening scene:

The evening scene was something like this. A man with his rough bansi or fish lines was sitting on the lower stairs waiting patiently for some movement in the nylon threads. An elderly lady holding the clothes of her husband, while he takes dips in the river. Two three Sadhus cleaning themseleves in the river. It was pretty less crowded.

When I climbed downstairs and neared the river, the surrounding which was not that cold suddenly became wintry. Water was amazingly cold. The freshness in the air made by the river became very evident.

I placed my camera back in my bag and sat there for minutes to wash my mind. Such opportunities are rare. I feel the local guys are lucky who can spend their time sitting by the Betwa.

That 15 minute will stay in heart for long.

betwa river bank, orchha photos
 On the bank of Betwa river

indian-sadhu-photos, indian holy man
 A Sadhu in Orchha, Madhya Pradesh.

betwa river, rivers in india
Betwa River in Orchha

Friday, July 17, 2015

A beautiful village - Ratanwadi






This was not the first time; I have been here thrice, that is more than what I visited my own village. I knew nobody here, neither anybody knew me. It was the beautiful minimalism of the village which had left a print in my hippocampus.

How is the village?

A dwelling of some 30-40 small houses scattered over the hills. Majority of them kutchha. A stream originating from the slopes of Ratangad flows by the edge of the village. A check dam on the river serves an excellent play area for the tourists.

indian village ratangad
Ratangad village

Amruteshwar Shiva temple:

Nearly 1300 hundred years old temple dedicated to Lord Shiva sets an impression for Ratanwadi. Amruteshwar temple as it is called is constructed using Hemadpanthi architectural style. The genre of architecture is named after Hemadpanth of Yadava dynasty. Style consists of using Black stones for construction and lime to glue the different pieces. Tulja Bhavani and Tambdi Surla are some other famous temples of Hemadpanthi genres.

Amruteshwar temple
Amruteshwar temple

Nandi in shiva temple
Nandi 

Base village for Ratangad trek:

Ratanwadi is the base village from where the Trek to Ratangad starts. Ratangad is an old fort, nearly 2000 years old. The trek encompasses crossing rapid streams multiple times, walking through the green mountains and continuous ascend for 3-4 hours to reach the top. Two iron ladders on the top finally take us to the fort. Trekkers use a natural cave on the fort to stay in night.

Accommodation/Camping in the village:

Expect very basic accommodation in the village. May be some villager can offer his spare room depending upon the availability. For campers the place is delight. We have camped on the hill on the other side of the river. High speed winds and heavy rains are expected in monsoon. Be prepared.


Let’s begin.

I was riding solo. Left the Arthur Lake and started riding towards Ratanwadi. The road runs parallel to the Lake. The Lake water makes the surrounding cool and fills the place with a very peculiar and light whiff. Now when you go next time and come back don’t say Niraj fooled us.  We didn’t smelled anything there :)  I would say stay away from the crowd, get yourself wrapped by the elements there the mountains, the grass, the Lake Water, local folks and certainly you will feel it.

I was riding at 25-30kmph for the 16km distance between Bhandardara dam and Ratanwadi village to enjoy the surrounding.

roads by lake side


village house


Every time I visit this village I can see the shift in life carried by the winds of modernization.

But this is how the time flows. I feel myself lucky to experience the raw side of Ratanwadi before these winds could expunge the original layer.

It’s fine for a Cobra to be in the temple of Bholenath:

Parked my bike close to the Amruteshwar mandir. Took darshan of the Shivling and was searching for a nice spot to film the temple. Right in front of me a middle aged man was posing with his elbow on the temple wall. A golden snake jumped from the hole below is armpit. The snake was fast it ran towards the temple boundary. Creeped up the 4 feet straight wall. Then it ran through the fencing wire criss crossing its body. Finally it disappeared in the tree leaves. Whole temple was in awe.


I didn’t know it was a Cobra until a local folk said. I just knew one thing that a cobra can raise its 1/3rd of its body and run raising his head. The man was still in a state of Shock  J

cobra, golden cobra
Cobra

old woman with pride
Woman with pride

Came out from the temple premises and went towards the stream for some photographs.



river in Ratanwadi
Stream running by the village

budgetyatri, indian villages
Beautiful village scenery

Reached Batliwala guest house in Bhandardara around 7 PM. I had purchased half a kilogram of big Kerala bananas for my dinner from the Shendi market.  Fruits and curd rice are the best to keep our stomach healthy on trips.

Night was calm and peaceful. Woke up early in the morning to capture the lake in blue hours. But rain compelled me to return quickly. Packed my stuffs, broke my fast at Café Bhandardara and started my return journey.

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Tansa lake: An offbeat place for solitude seekers







Hunting for another spot to ride on weekend, I stumbled on Tansa lake or Tansa dam. It is more of an offbeat place. Hardly anybody visit here. There is not much to see there. But some photos on the internet was quite interesting. What’s then, pulled up my bike on Saturday 5:30 AM in the morning and vroomed to Tansa.

Tansa lake

Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Using technology to restore faith in gods

    What happened on 16 July 2013 in Uttarakhand are still fresh in our minds. Thousands of lives lost and millions of property perished. Destruction was the consequence of unchecked construction of hotels and houses next to river beds. Nature knows balancing itself. Unfortunately, the innocents suffered the most.

But the question is did we handled the situation well ?
No. People are scared of returning. They fear that they could have been one of the unidentified dead bodies. They could have been one of the families having no clue whether they should consider their parents dead or not.

I know sitting at home and talking is easy than being present at the scene. But, Yes we could minimized the losses if we had an fair system monitoring the pilgrims and disaster management plan implemented.

After analyzing how things went from bad to worst, broadly two things come into picture

First point is that the government didnt had any information of the number of pilgrims on char dham yatra.

Pilgrims were the biggest victims of the calamity. Although government figure estimates close to 5700 deaths, the number is feared to be much higher.

Many lost their lives due to the poor rescue operations. Had the disaster management were in good shape the agony and pains would have been much small.

There is no regulation on the flow of tourists and pilgrims. Government had no idea how many were there in Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath.

Secondly, they could not establish any channel to dissipate information regarding temporary shelters, relief camps and emergency situations to the pilgrims and tourists. This created panic and panic is the worst thing during calamities and emergency situations.
It creates an environment of fear and hopelessness. This is what happened with there. Nobody knew what to do next. They didn’t knew if there was any medical camp nearby or temporary shelters or food availability. They were trapped amidst dead bodies and crying survivors with no idea if they had any chances of living.

Now, where does the #DigitalIndia comes into picture.  We know Digital India aims at providing connectivity across nation as well as improving the digital literacy.

Considering its implementation is disciplined, in such a case not only it can handle situations like 2013 but has the potential to greatly reduce the problems faced by pilgrims and tourists on Char Dham Yatra.

Author proposes a system which integrates different departments of government and shares information related to weather forecast, road conditions, crowd density, accommodation availability and other relevant information.

Its structure:

1.Travel operators and individuals has to register themselves before embarking on yatra.
Process has to simple yet relevant information like pilgrims detail and their estimated halts has to captured.

2.Software should display the range of dates to the pilgrim along with the density of pilgrims on that date. This will give pilgrims to select dates with less density and may prevent overcrowding on a particular day.



Abstract representation of point 2

3.Information regularly updated by different department of governments like Tourism and Catering, Healthcare, Roads and Highway should be displayed in presentable format to the visitors.
This will make them aware of the presence of basic necessities   in between their routes. This can lessen the panic n case of emergency.

4.In case of emergency, authorities can prepare a crisis mapping chart by pulling information from registrations and public sources. Google crisis mapping <https://google.org/crisismap/weather_and_events> could be used.
This will help the authorities to prepare targeted evacuation plan and necessity disbursement by building up ‘situation reports’.

Abstract representation of point 4

5.Weather forecasts and road alerts on the go may help reschedule and reroute yatra plan. This will save unncesessary chokings at some places.

6.Software embedded with emergency numbers and action plan can obviously help not all but few thus providing much needed support.

Sunday, March 29, 2015

Auli Ski Resort Uttarakhand






Auli Ski Resort is a wonderful Skiing location in the state of Uttarakhand in India. The snow-white Ski slopes of Auli and Ski boarders were waiting eagerly for my appearance :)  I was staying in the dormitory of GMVN in Joshimath. Auli Ski Slope is 15 Kilometer uphill from the small town of Joshimath.

I was the only soul in the GMVN dormitory of 10 beds. Freezing night was in its last phase. The winter morning made sure to keep me beneath two woolen blankets apart from body thermals. Checked my mobile it was around 7 AM of the morning. I could see the dawn breaking from the GMVN window.
Chirping of the birds, soft footsteps of the waiters in the corridor, men with sweater and muffler pushing the bicycle pedal hard on the hilly road broke a big smile on my lips.

I wish I could be the eternal element of such a beautiful mountain morning scene.

ski resort in india, bike trip to auli
Album cover

route map of joshimath to auli
Route map

6 days of winter in Himalayas - Solo 2015 - Part 3 - In the land of Badri Vishal






Part 1 The beginning 
Part 2 Rishikesh to Gopeshwar
Part 4 Skiing at Auli
Part 5 Trek to Deoria Tal
Part 6 Beatles ashram and 3 sanyasis

  Opened my day with a shivering bath followed by packing and loading. Tying ropes in a winter morning is what I don't like. It was around 07:00, came down in the GMVN restaurant to enjoy a hot tea. Finishing tea geared myself and left the GMVN. Avenger started with the first hit of self start. Didnt faced any cold start problem throughout the journey.

bike trip to uttarakhand, budgetyatri
Album cover

gopeshwar to badrinath
 Day 2 route map

hotel gmvn, gmvn accomodation
 View from GMVN Gopeshwar

6 days of winter in Himalayas - Solo 2015 - Part 5 - Deoria Tal trek






Part 1 The beginning
Part 2 Rishikesh to Gopeshwar
Part 3 In the land of Badri Vishal 
Part 4 Skiing at Auli
Part 6 Beatles ashram and 3 sanyasis


Today's plan included trek to Deoria Tal. Deoria Tal has its reference in Mahabharat. It's the same lake where 4 of the Pandavas dies by drinking lake water without answering the Yaksh's questions. They were brought to life only when Yudhistir answers all the questions. I  like part especially the question and answer between Yudhistir and Dharmraj.

deoria tal trek, bike trip to deoria tal
Album cover

      Route marked in black is a direct route between Gopeshwar and Ukhimath. Chopta, Chandrashila and Deoria Tal lies enroute. This route was closed due to heavy snowfall. I had go around and reach Ukhimath via Rudraprayag.


Direct road is 60km and the longer one via Rudraprayag was 130km. I had no options but to take the longer route. Braced for the longer route followed by trek after that, I left the place around 08:00. Reached Ukhimath around 12:30. Construction work and bad roads considerably slow down the speed.

GMVN Ukhimath is beautifully located on a mountain. What can be more pleasant than sitting on a chair in the small garden of the resort sipping chai or coffee and eyes fixed on the snow clad peaks. Beautiful town of Guptkashi lies on the other side of the river.

The Beatles Ashram and 3 Sanyasis in Rishikesh






Part 1 The beginning
Part 2 Rishikesh to Gopeshwar
Part 3 In the land of Badri Vishal 
Part 4 Skiing at Auli
Part 5 Trek to Deoria Tal

Today's plan was to reach Rishikesh and handover bike to Ashok ji. Local sight seeing in Rishikesh and attend Ganga aarti in Haridwar.
beatles ashram, budgetyatri
Album cover

Checked out from GMVN, Ukhimath and left for Rishikesh at 09:30. Two times Aloo Paratha, 4 coffee, 4 Tea cost me Rs.120.

Ukhimath to Rishikesh was around 182km. I rode throughout enjoying the scenery and mountain curves.

Enroute Rudraprayag from Ukhimath

6 days of winter in Himalayas - Solo 2015 - Part 1 - The Beginning






Part 2 Rishikesh to Gopeshwar
Part 3 In the land of Badri Vishal 
Part 4 Skiing at Auli
Part 5 Trek to Deoria Tal
Part 6 Beatles ashram and 3 sanyasis

    Before starting the travelogue I would like to introduce myself a little. Describing myself I am not the one zipping and speeding at 120kmph. I respect machines and believe motorcycles are best when it comes to explore places. It balances the fuel and fun well. I term myself as budget yatri. My bike trips are extremely cheap but equally meaningful and I feel good about it. I prefer basic accommodations and eat what locals eat.

    I never rush towards my destination as doing so do not let us enjoy the journey. I like to connect those small dots enroute and make a final picture of the journey. Lets start..

    Himalayas always fascinated me. I used to wonder of huge mountains and greenish rivers slipping through the deep valleys. I dreamed of shining snow clad peaks standing one behind another and locals busy in their daily routine walking up and down the mountain.

    Literature's of mystical Yogis wandering in Himalayas in search of ultimate truth always motivated me. Somewhat with the same intention and to see if I can stumble upon such mystical Yogis this trip was planned.

Itinerary:
Mumbai to Haridwar on train.

Day 1: Get bike from Rishikesh and ride upto GMVN, Gopeshwar. [210km]
Day 2: Ride till Badrinath or closer and rest in GMVN, Joshimath. [141km]
Day 3: Ride to Auli. Ski if possible and rest in GMVN, Gopeshwar. [80km]
Day 4: Ride to Ukhimath. Trek Deoria Taal and rest in GMVN, Ukhimath. [160km]
Day 5: Return to Rishikesh. Visit Ashrams and local sight seeing. [190km]
Day 6: Stay in Haridwar. Attend Ganga aarti and local sightseeing.

Back to Mumbai.

Packing:
 Recommended for bike trips in Uttarakhand. Items may differ for other mountainous region.


1.Good thermals are must for bike rides in cold regions.  Make sure you have both shirt and pajama. Rupa Thermocot is reliable.
2.A good riding jacket. Sweatshirts, T-shirts and Jeans. With four layers of clothing I still shivered twice during the tour. It’s not the snow which makes us shiver. In fact, I didn’t felt much cold amidst snow in Auli. It is the cold wind which can be troublesome while riding.
3.Take care to carry winter riding gloves. My leather gloves burnt the top part of my two fingers. Regaining full sensation took a week.
4.Purchase Balaclava suited for winters, you will regret with ordinary ones. Purchase somewhat like what I used in one of the pics enroute Badrinath. It has two setting threads; one tightens around the head and other one around the nose.
5.Knee and Elbow guards.
6.A big torch. One which I use costs Rs.350. It is easily available in Mumbai. Best part is it is very powerful and runs for 12 hours if charged full. I remember how this helped me during the Rajasthan trip, when the headlight of Impulse stopped working in a dark night.
7.First aid kit (Paracetamol, Digene, Pudin hara, band aids, small antiseptic bottle, cotton roll, mesh roll used to wrap wounds above cotton, motion control tablets-Lemofen, razor blades, scissor ).
8.I did packed good amount of snacks but after the tour I felt you need not carry that much.
9.Camera and accessories (Charger, tripod). Keep spare memory cards. I almost lost 70 photos when one of the cards stopped working at Auli Ski slope. Luckily it worked later.
10.Bungee cords, nylon ropes, safety pins, 1.5m x1.5m plastic sheet to cover luggage from shower, repair toolkit, safety knife, government district or state map printouts (they are the best), Pen and notepad in case you write.
 Rest of the things like routine items, clothes depend upon how light or heavy you prefer to travel. Just remember to carry multiple socks and inner wears :)

Mumbai to Rishikesh [Argument with Sanyasi] :

    This part was quite eventful. Sleeper coaches were always happening for me. Golden temple mail was crowded as usual. 12-13 army recruits, seemed from Haryana boarded from Gujrat and filled whatever space was remaining around. Their shouting and gali galauj stopped when a well built Sanyasi more like Pierce Brosnan came and sat near us. Shortly one quarter of the coach was attracted with his voice and gathered around us. I was listening him too.

  But he kept speaking about the problems. We all knew what sort of problems we have as an Individual and as a citizen. In between he said good people should not run to earn and accumulate wealth. I interrupted him. I said there is nothing wrong in earning wealth. In fact, this is what the dharma of Grihasth (married) is.

It is his duty to generate employment and earn profit by providing quality materials. Later purifying his earning by donation. तन की शुद्धि स्नान से होती है। मन की शुद्धि ध्यान से होती है। और धन की शुद्धि दान से होती है। This is what we are expected to do.

He was hesitating to accept. People started supporting me. Then a good round of discussion started which  ended in an argument. He left the seat and never came back. He came across me outside Delhi station. I passed a smile but he didn't cared to smile back. I laughed and went on ...

     I met another interesting guy a nuclear scientist from Bihar. Very simple and shy. He worked at Rawatbhata nuclear reactor in Rajasthan. He went on explaining his training, reactor construction, premises, working of reactor, fuel supply management, storage, new inventions and many secrets advising in last not to share.

     From Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station hired an auto rickshaw for Old Delhi station as last local departed just now at 19:00. Negotiated the rickshaw for Rs.100. This is the easiest transport from Nizamuddin to Old Delhi especially  if you have luggage and don't know Delhi. Rickshaw took 30 minutes but I was not bothered as the connecting train to Haridwar was at 23:45. Reached Haridwar in morning at 05:00.

Boarded state government bus from Haridwar bus stop which is in front of Haridwar railway station. Bus took 40 minutes to reach Rishikesh and charged Rs.35.

      Took another rickshaw for Rs.100 from Rishikesh bus depot for Laxman Jhula which is 5km far.
I was to get my mobility from Mountain Fox Adventure, Hrishikesh. Called Ashok ji. He was very prompt to pick up my call at 07:45 in morning. He came to his office on Laxman Jhula road and handed over a good Bajaj Avenger. He was quite helpful in negotiating the deal and accepting my request for a good condition Bajaj Avenger. Recommended for bike rentals and other adventure activities http://motorcyclerentalrishikesh.com/.

bike rentals in uttarakhand, budgetyatri


Part 2 Rishikesh to Gopeshwar
Part 3 In the land of Badri Vishal 
Part 4 Skiing at Auli
Part 5 Trek to Deoria Tal
Part 6 Beatles ashram and 3 sanyasis