Sunday, July 19, 2015

Betwa river side: A lesser known marvel near Jhansi






Betwa river is one of the prominent river in Madhya Pradesh apart from Narmada i.e. Maa Rewa, Chambal and Son. Betwa flows gently on the Malwa plateau before merging into Yamuna in Hamirpur, Uttar Pradesh. 

Orchha is a beautiful ancient site along the banks of Betwa River in Madhya Pradesh. The history of this place is traced back to the Ramayan era when Lord Ram stayed here during his exile. Then, Betwa was known as Vetravati. A beautiful temple dedicated to Lord Ram popularly called as Raja Ram mandir is located some few meters away from Betwa banks.


places to visit in orchha
Betwa river Orchha chhatri

How to reach Orchha?

Orchha is in Madhya Pradesh. The closest railway junction to Orchha is Jhansi in Uttar Pradesh. Jhansi is some 20 Kilometers from Orchha. Jhansi railway station is well connected to all the metros and other big cities of India. Once you are in Jhansi, hire an Auto Rickshaw for Orchha. They charge around 80-100 rupees one way and 4 people can easily get in.

Where to stay?

If you are NOT on a tight budget then Orchha is the best place to stay. I haven’t stayed there but from a second source Orchha Resort and Betwa Retreat are the two best hotels in Orchha. They are a couple of minutes walk from the Betwa river bank.
If you are looking for budget hotels, I would suggest staying in Jhansi city itself. You can get a range of options in Jhansi city. When I was Jhansi I stayed in Hotel Chanda opposite to Jhansi public garden.

Must visit places in Jhansi and Orchha?

Ok. Here are the list of must visit places in and around Jhansi and Orchha.
Jhansi Fort – It’s big; keep 2-3 hours to see the fort comfortably. This is the fort from where Rani Laxmibai on his horse jumped from the fort wall with her son tied on her back.
Jhansi museum – Interesting stuffs related to Bundelkhand history and art. Worth visiting.
Raja Ram Mandir, Orchha – Both old and new one. Don’t the miss the old temple.
Orchha palace – Also known as Jahangir palace.
Betwa riverside, Orchha – Do you love sitting idle and your gaze fixed at infinity, then this is the place you are looking upon.

Let’s begin

This place was not in the original list. I feel happy that I found didn’t missed this place. A number of Cenotaphs or Chattris as it is called stands by the river bank. These were constructed by medieval kingdoms and they are really a treat to our eyes.



orchha history, cenotaphs-orchha
Cenotaphs or Chhatris in Orchha

orcha cenotaphs, orchha jhansi
Chhatri in Orchha, Madhya Pradesh

places to visit in madhya pradesh
Chhatris on the Betwa banks

The evening scene:

The evening scene was something like this. A man with his rough bansi or fish lines was sitting on the lower stairs waiting patiently for some movement in the nylon threads. An elderly lady holding the clothes of her husband, while he takes dips in the river. Two three Sadhus cleaning themseleves in the river. It was pretty less crowded.

When I climbed downstairs and neared the river, the surrounding which was not that cold suddenly became wintry. Water was amazingly cold. The freshness in the air made by the river became very evident.

I placed my camera back in my bag and sat there for minutes to wash my mind. Such opportunities are rare. I feel the local guys are lucky who can spend their time sitting by the Betwa.

That 15 minute will stay in heart for long.

betwa river bank, orchha photos
 On the bank of Betwa river

indian-sadhu-photos, indian holy man
 A Sadhu in Orchha, Madhya Pradesh.

betwa river, rivers in india
Betwa River in Orchha

Friday, July 17, 2015

A beautiful village - Ratanwadi






This was not the first time; I have been here thrice, that is more than what I visited my own village. I knew nobody here, neither anybody knew me. It was the beautiful minimalism of the village which had left a print in my hippocampus.

How is the village?

A dwelling of some 30-40 small houses scattered over the hills. Majority of them kutchha. A stream originating from the slopes of Ratangad flows by the edge of the village. A check dam on the river serves an excellent play area for the tourists.

indian village ratangad
Ratangad village

Amruteshwar Shiva temple:

Nearly 1300 hundred years old temple dedicated to Lord Shiva sets an impression for Ratanwadi. Amruteshwar temple as it is called is constructed using Hemadpanthi architectural style. The genre of architecture is named after Hemadpanth of Yadava dynasty. Style consists of using Black stones for construction and lime to glue the different pieces. Tulja Bhavani and Tambdi Surla are some other famous temples of Hemadpanthi genres.

Amruteshwar temple
Amruteshwar temple

Nandi in shiva temple
Nandi 

Base village for Ratangad trek:

Ratanwadi is the base village from where the Trek to Ratangad starts. Ratangad is an old fort, nearly 2000 years old. The trek encompasses crossing rapid streams multiple times, walking through the green mountains and continuous ascend for 3-4 hours to reach the top. Two iron ladders on the top finally take us to the fort. Trekkers use a natural cave on the fort to stay in night.

Accommodation/Camping in the village:

Expect very basic accommodation in the village. May be some villager can offer his spare room depending upon the availability. For campers the place is delight. We have camped on the hill on the other side of the river. High speed winds and heavy rains are expected in monsoon. Be prepared.


Let’s begin.

I was riding solo. Left the Arthur Lake and started riding towards Ratanwadi. The road runs parallel to the Lake. The Lake water makes the surrounding cool and fills the place with a very peculiar and light whiff. Now when you go next time and come back don’t say Niraj fooled us.  We didn’t smelled anything there :)  I would say stay away from the crowd, get yourself wrapped by the elements there the mountains, the grass, the Lake Water, local folks and certainly you will feel it.

I was riding at 25-30kmph for the 16km distance between Bhandardara dam and Ratanwadi village to enjoy the surrounding.

roads by lake side


village house


Every time I visit this village I can see the shift in life carried by the winds of modernization.

But this is how the time flows. I feel myself lucky to experience the raw side of Ratanwadi before these winds could expunge the original layer.

It’s fine for a Cobra to be in the temple of Bholenath:

Parked my bike close to the Amruteshwar mandir. Took darshan of the Shivling and was searching for a nice spot to film the temple. Right in front of me a middle aged man was posing with his elbow on the temple wall. A golden snake jumped from the hole below is armpit. The snake was fast it ran towards the temple boundary. Creeped up the 4 feet straight wall. Then it ran through the fencing wire criss crossing its body. Finally it disappeared in the tree leaves. Whole temple was in awe.


I didn’t know it was a Cobra until a local folk said. I just knew one thing that a cobra can raise its 1/3rd of its body and run raising his head. The man was still in a state of Shock  J

cobra, golden cobra
Cobra

old woman with pride
Woman with pride

Came out from the temple premises and went towards the stream for some photographs.



river in Ratanwadi
Stream running by the village

budgetyatri, indian villages
Beautiful village scenery

Reached Batliwala guest house in Bhandardara around 7 PM. I had purchased half a kilogram of big Kerala bananas for my dinner from the Shendi market.  Fruits and curd rice are the best to keep our stomach healthy on trips.

Night was calm and peaceful. Woke up early in the morning to capture the lake in blue hours. But rain compelled me to return quickly. Packed my stuffs, broke my fast at Café Bhandardara and started my return journey.

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Tansa lake: An offbeat place for solitude seekers







Hunting for another spot to ride on weekend, I stumbled on Tansa lake or Tansa dam. It is more of an offbeat place. Hardly anybody visit here. There is not much to see there. But some photos on the internet was quite interesting. What’s then, pulled up my bike on Saturday 5:30 AM in the morning and vroomed to Tansa.

Tansa lake