The Beatles Ashram and 3 Sanyasis in Rishikesh

Part 1 The beginning
Part 2 Rishikesh to Gopeshwar
Part 3 In the land of Badri Vishal 
Part 4 Skiing at Auli
Part 5 Trek to Deoria Tal

Today's plan was to reach Rishikesh and handover bike to Ashok ji. Local sight seeing in Rishikesh and attend Ganga aarti in Haridwar.

Album cover

Checked out from GMVN, Ukhimath and left for Rishikesh at 09:30. Two times Aloo Paratha, 4 coffee, 4 Tea cost me Rs.120.

Ukhimath to Rishikesh was around 182km. I rode throughout enjoying the scenery and mountain curves.

Enroute Rudraprayag from Ukhimath

Did my lunch at the same place in Srinagar. They were happy to see me and asked if my journey was good.. This time it was Rajma Chawal.
When the time cease to exist we tend to enjoy things the most. Journey was so involving I didn't remembered when I reached Laxman Jhula. Placed my luggage at Mountain Fox Adventure.

Route map

I roughly had 5 hours in the Rishikesh. I didn't had any fix list for Rishikesh but had thought of seeing Laxman Jhula, renowned Parmarth Niketan Ashram, Swarg Ashram, Beatles Ashram and Ganga aarti. 5 hours were enough for all these. Creeping through the lanes of Rishikesh on the bike, I reached Laxman Jhula in 5 minutes. Laxman Jhula is a narrow suspension bridge usually filled with tourists and locals crossing the river. People use Ram Jhula as well to cross which is little down the river.

I was surprised that bikes were allowed on that narrow bridge. Honking and moving slowly crossed the bridge. Went to Parmarth Niketan Ashram first, but didn't knew what to do here. So just took note of the things and moved to Swarg Ashram. Repeated the same in Swarg Ashram.

While returning from Swarg Ashram I spotted a beautiful ghat in front of Gita bhawan. It was tempting.
Although it was bright sunny day, I didn't mind walking on the hot floor of the ghat and sitting on the lowest stair next to Ganga.

Ganga ghat in Rishikesh

Scene was heavenly. Ganga was very fast here. Faster than what I saw elsewhere. Water was clear and greenish. My eyes was stuck in the midst of the river over the sunshine and I was lost in thoughts.
I didn't knew when 2 hours passed.

Started my bike towards the last one in the list.

Maharshi Mahesh Yogi ashram or Beatles Ashram it is know popularly is not easy to locate.
From the main road which goes towards highway just after the taxi stand a kutchha road in the right hand side goes to Beatles Ashram. Ashram gate is around 100 meters from the main road.

It was constructed in 1960s later the area was declared part of Rajaji national park and they had to close down the ashram. Fair amount of foreigners come to this place wishing to see the place where Beatles stayed and composed.

 Parked my bike in front of a closed metal gate. Inside the gate a 50-55 year old man in kurta was talking with a foreigner. I called that man and said I want to see the Ashram. From no angle that place seemed to be an ashram it was just fallen structures amidst jungle. He said its 5 PM and its closed. I said I have come a long way to see this. Finally I was able to convince him. He took my driving license and said go carefully its jungle on the other side with no boundary walls. I said Ok. The place was already getting dark.

Stoned footpath leads to the main compound or courtyard. I noticed a tiny bird very fast and restless. Wasted my 10 minutes to capture it in camera.

 The restless bird.

Ashram had around 130 concrete Kuti equipped with air conditioners and public address system. Once the meditators went inside the Kuti they locked themselves and meditated in seclusion. Beatles too did this.
Place seemed poorly maintained. Creepers covered the building walls. Doors and windows were broken.
Since I didn't had a guide, it was just walls and doors for me.
I saw jungles starting so returned back.
 

Foot path in the Ashram

Flowers in the Ashram

 Mushrooms

 Kuti

2 more old Sanyasis were sitting beside the man who took my DL.
Asked the man if I can have my DL back since I have to return Haridwar today itself.

He said sit we are not going to take your DL. After basic introduction of each other a good piece of conversation started. I remember the exact words. I said 'मुझे आध्यात्मिकता के प्रति झुकाव है. योगियों को ढूंढने की कोशिश भी की मैंने'
No one said anything.
Then I asked two old Sanyasis 'आप दोनों ने कब संयास लिया'
One of them who was preparing chilam spoke in a deep voice 'अरे हमें तो चालीस हो गए'
I further spoke 'आपने तो चालीस साल में काफी साधना की होगी और आपने सन्यास क्यों लिया' 
Offering his chilam which I respectfully rejected he shared his story very briefly of how he retired from his life. Meanwhile the man who took my DL returned and sat next to me keeping his left leg folded on his right thigh.
It was then, I noticed his elephant like leg. He was rubbing his huge foot with right palm which only had 2 full fingers rest were half or less than that. It was getting dark and scene seemed quite scary in the jungle.

Sanyasi continued 'चालीस साल में मैंने हर घाट का पानी पिया है।  अब तो मेरे अपने बच्चे ही मुझे नहीं पहचानते।  यहाँ के योगी और साधुओं से बच कर रहना बाबूजी ।'

He continued  'आज कल के गुरु गुरु घंटाल हैं। सच्चे  योगी मिलना बहोत मुस्किल हैं । ऊपरी हिमालय में शायद मिल जाये पर वो दूर रहना ही पसंद करते हैं।'

I asked him how do they survive in extreme cold place like Badrinath in loin.
He replied 'योग बाबूजी। बहोत शक्ति है इसमें पर मुस्किल भी है'। I said I know Pranayam. He said 'ये सब नहीं कुण्डलिनी सुना है आपने।'
I nodded affirmative and name 3-4 chakra which I remembered.

He said 'जी। इनमे से मूलाधार चक्र जो मेरुदण्ड के अंत में होता है उसपर ध्यान लगते हैं योगी।
और उसे क्रियान्वित करते हैं। उसके सक्रिय होने पर बहोत ऊर्जा उत्पन्न होती है। जिससे उनको भयंकर ठंडी में भी पसीने छूटते हैं। पर ये तो कुछ नहीं है उनके लिए।'

I was fascinated and asked them did you people tried this. He said 'हमने हर घाट का पानी पिया है' But I knew he was lying. A yogi cannot have chilam in his hand but I remained silent and continued listening him.

'अरे हम तो शमशान में भी सोते हैं।  शमशान जानते हो ना। हमें किसी का भय नहीं'  he said penetrating my eyes with this deep glare. Suddenly the other person itching his elephant leg with his damaged finger said 'अरे ये तो कभी कभी शमशान में सोते हैं मै तो हर दिन ही मरघट मे सोता हूँ, ये जंगल किसी मरघट से कम है क्या? आपको पता है यहाँ क्या होता है। '

He sounded scary. I intervened and said I think the discussion is going elsewhere and also I am getting late.
But they didn't let me go next we discussed on Bhiksha vritti, role of sanyasi towards society, how Vedic dharma is different, role of marriage, role of grihasth towards society, etc.

In the end, I came to know that the other twoSanyasis were disciples of Mahesh Yogi. They showed me some real photographs of the ashram, Beatles and Mahesh Yogi with themselves. I was getting desperate to leave, asked for my DL, handed that man 30 rupees, took my bike and rode back to other side of Laxman Jhula.

While returning went to German bakery which didn't stood to expectation.
Handed my bike to Mountain Fox Adventure and left for Haridwar.

Shared tempos are available but I took a private one for Rs.100 as I had to catch bus from Rishikesh bus stop as soon as possible.

Ganga aarti at Rishikesh

Some photos from Haridwar:

Enroute Haridwar

Ghats - Haridwar

Morning bath at Har ki Pauri

Chains of spirituality

Childrens at Har ki Pauri searching coins

Thank you for reading my travelogue. Email me at nfniraj@gmail.com for any information.

Part 1 The beginning
Part 2 Rishikesh to Gopeshwar
Part 3 In the land of Badri Vishal 
Part 4 Skiing at Auli
Part 5 Trek to Deoria Tal

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